The train was full and so many travellers who were geared for ski-ing. My travel companion explained that it was the childrens school winter break and many were off to enjoy a stay in holday cottages. These cottages are frequently lake side and used in summer for sailing, fishing etc but this time of year provide facilities for winter sports. It struck me that Norway is very much like Holland with strong family actvities. Everyone from toddlers to grandparants carry their gear in backpacks and share their loads. My companion was friendly, cultured and informative and was interested in my plans and somewhat surprised that I was not taking the more usual tourist tour. He gave me lots of tips.
As we left Oslo the mist cleared, the sky changed to blue , the sun came out and the snow shone thro white and sparkling.
The dirty slushy snow of the city became virginal and unmarked apart from where the odd bird had landed or wild animal walked. The scenery was magical, acres of Christmas tees in all shapes and sizes with branches laden so they drooped downwards. Colourful wooden houses dotted around with roofs laden with snow proving how well insulated they were. So many of the charming houses had minature replicas in the gardens for childrens play houses. Logs were neatly stacked and uniformly cut. Oh what would they make of my untidy wood store?!
We then came to the areas of the lakes.. frozen solid and lttle to define the shoreline. Only snow coered boulders marked the beaches or landing jetties defined where boats were normally moored. This is obviously a summer playground with individual lakeside cottages. In places the water had frozen in the shape of ripples.. just stopped in time. Far too interesting to doze off but dusk was starting to set in.
So much to observe and learn! Just pick up and wooden chair on skis and push yourself around like riding a scooter. Young children happy in the front and being whizzzed around by grandparents. Teenagers using them for fast track races and an old Michelin lady trying to get the hang of it before approachng the downhill slopes! I found the braking system of dragging a foot useful and effective. My boots are proving the biggest bonus. In them I feel secure and warm. The long collapsible pole I brought is also fantastic,not only for extra confidence but a good indiicator of snow depth if you are in danger of wandering from a path.
Of course my visit really was centred to the ice hotel and cathedral. My expectations were to sit at the bar ad have an aperitif! That idea was frozen out by prices, starting at 10 pounds for a long drink to 25 pounds for a wine! without ice of course!
The restaurant was worthy of a look as it was decorated with Trolls and enchanted figures, wonderful log fire and a menu of reindeer, fresh salmon and other local delicacies. Main courses were around 30 pounds and 10 for starters or desserts. Thank goodness for the extra pack of sadwiches back at the hotel and the museli bars I had been nibbling on all day. All indoor areas had places to shed your outer garments and hang up. Young children are broungt in, ski suits discarded and out from their backpacks will come small flasks with a hot drink. They are so well organised and the kids active and well behaved. Braziers were doted around the park ad whole families would sit, enjoy the warmth whilst the kids played in ice shutes, curling, and all sorts of things.
Time to walk back to the station but before I did I needed to establish how to cross the railway line for the return train. When I arrived I could not see anything obvious and wondered it it meant walking over the track. Better be safe than sorry so I started my enquiries at the park entrance. It involved 3 people before they all fell about laughing as they realised that at this point it is only a single track so only platform on one side! I started my 10 min walk back to the platform with a smile on my face. The temperature was minus 20 but apart from one hand (camera button!) I have not felt cold. The walk was good and well lit but it was pretty virginal snow as most visitors arrive by car. I kept myself warm by walking the station until arrival of the train and it only picked up 3 passengers here, For this part of the journey I had paid 9 pounds extra for Komfort Klass.. tempted by the offer of reclining seats and free coffee. I had thought that at the end of a long day I would be in need of both. Again everyone sheds their outer layers as the temperature is kept very warm. But how do I shed 3 pairs of knee length thermal knickers in public!? The journey slipped by and I was amused that the guard stepped off in short sleeves at each station. I decided not to attempt the walk to the hotel at 11pm so another taxi. I picked up a mug from the desk and came to the room to make a brew and have my sandwiches.. plus of course check my EMails!
It was pleasant to sleep under a thin duvet and now sit up in bed and type my diary without any extra warmh needed. This is far better than Casa M but I am sure it comes at a cost. The electric element I have brought is great and my toothbrush comes in handy to stir the tea forgot to bring a spoon) Breakfast is at 6am so I am 1 hr late! But I have completed my diary for Day 1.
